How to Add Inseam Pockets: Free Pocket Pattern and Tutorial

What’s one thing that can make a great pair of pants into an awesome pair? Pockets!! Pockets make everything better, right?

Today I’ve got a free pocket pattern and tutorial for adding inseam pockets to the new Freestyle Harem Pants, Capris & Shorts (which are currently available in the Girl’s Bundle UP sale and will be in the EYMM shop after Feb. 16).

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Even better? This free multi-size inseam pocket piece works well with many other patterns, including the California Dress, Sasha’s and Natasha’s Dresses, the Women’s Off the Shoulder Dress, Zander’s Hoodie, the His & Hers Asymmetrical Hoodie, and the simple skirt version of Kenzie’s Party Dress. The method to add them will be the same, but pocket placement will vary with different patterns.

Okay, let’s get started on adding pockets to the Freestyle Harem Pants.

First, you need to print, assemble, and cut out your paper pattern pieces. Next, you need to create a side seam. Take the leg pattern piece and cut it in two vertically along the grey dotted line (pointed to by the red arrows on the picture below). This will leave you with a front (below on left) and a back (below on right) leg pattern.

** Ahem, don’t mind my pattern-printed-on-looseleaf-paper … desperate times = desperate measures. 😉

1

Cut paper pattern in two along dotted grey line (pointed to by red arrows), then add 3/8″ along that edge when you cut your fabric.

You will need to add 3/8″ to that edge for side seam allowance when you cut your fabric. You will need two fronts and two backs, one right and one left of each. Cut the waistband pieces and optional cuffs as per the pattern.

2

Cut two right and two left pocket pieces.

You will also cut 4 pocket pieces (two left and two right), using the free pocket pattern found HERE in the corresponding size for the pants you’re making.

Finish the raw edge of your pants side seam and around the perimeter of your 4 pocket pieces with your serger or by using a zigzag stitch (this can be skipped if you’re using knit, but it adds to a more professionally finished look).

** Tip: If your fabric does not have an obvious “right” and “wrong” side, you can use pieces of tape on the wrong sides to tell the difference easily.

3

Pin one pocket piece, right sides together, to each front and back leg piece. Placement should be 1.5″ from top raw edge of pant legs.

Place a pocket piece 1.5″ from the top raw edge on each pant leg’s side seam (picture above). Pin and then straight stitch along the side seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance (picture below left). Repeat with other pant legs and pocket pieces (2 shown above, but you’ll have 4 total).

4

Left picture shows pocket piece sewn to side seam with 1/4″ seam allowance. Right picture shows pocket flipped outward and sewn 1/8″ from the seam line to secure to side seam allowance. These two pictures are of different legs and so are not facing the same way.

Next, fold your pocket piece out, keeping the allowance on the pocket side of the seam. Straight stitch 1/8″ away from the seam line, securing the seam allowance to the pocket (picture above right). This will help keep the pockets inside the side seam of the finished pants.

5

This shows one front and one back stitched right sides together with a 3/8″ seam allowance (from top down side seam, around pocket, and continuing down leg’s side seam).

Pin one front and one back with right sides together, aligning the side seam edges and pocket pieces. Stitch from the top down, with 3/8″ seam allowance. Stop with your needle down when you are 3/8″ past the top edge of the pocket. Lift your presser foot, turn toward the pocket, put your presser foot down and stitch around edge of pocket. Stop again when you’re 3/8″ past the edge of the pants with your needle down and put your presser foot up. Pivot toward the bottom of the leg, put the presser foot down, and continue stitching down the remainder of the side seam.

6

Left photo shows the pocket “hiding” in the side seam. The white stitching line you see is where the pocket is secured to the seam allowance to keep it inside the seam. The right photo is my 3-year-old showing how his hand goes in the pocket … he wanted to “try the pocket” when he saw me taking the other photo. LOL

Turn your pant leg right side out and admire your new inseam pocket! Now you can continue your pants construction by following the pattern as written.

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I love how easy it is to add pockets to the side seams of pants and skirts! Pockets truly make clothing better (at least in my opinion)!

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My daughter paired her new blue Freestyle Harem Pants with a floral Asymmetrical Drape Top for a casual, fun look. I love that these pants can be styled so differently by use of different fabrics and accessories.

** Note: The pants aren’t supposed to have any gathering down the legs like this pair seems to. This ruched look was, I think, due to my thin knit combined with a triple stretch stitch. I may have accidentally stretched it while sewing, too. Good thing my daughter loves the “fancy wrinkles.” Haha!

Happy Sewing!!  ~  Joelle

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Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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